The Ludwig Walnut kit: after varnishing?

[Anthony Giampa]

Is there anything I have to do after varnishing? I've put on 3 coats, I
think I'll just keep going until I finish off the last of my 1/2 pint can.
Looks like 2 maybe 3 more coats per drum. Should I or can I, do anythign
else after that to further protect the finish?

--

--
Anthony Giampa; Imperiai2@cox.net
"Pity makes me strong." -- Conan O'Brien

[Pete Pemberton]

Are you sanding between coats? Do you have to do that with 'gel' varnish?

Hand rub the last coat maybe?

How did the staining go?

PP
"Anthony Giampa" <Imperiai2@cox.net> wrote in message
news:qZV4b.38563$nf3.34207@fed1read07...
> Is there anything I have to do after varnishing? I've put on 3 coats, I
> think I'll just keep going until I finish off the last of my 1/2 pint can.
> Looks like 2 maybe 3 more coats per drum. Should I or can I, do anythign
> else after that to further protect the finish?
>
> --
>
> --
> Anthony Giampa; Imperiai2@cox.net
> "Pity makes me strong." -- Conan O'Brien
>
>
>

[Anthony Giampa]

There is no mention of sanding between coats, so I haven't done any... What
I am doing now is just ragging the stuff on-- isn't that 'hand rubbing'?

The staining went seemingly fine. I'm satisfied, and the color seems
decently even over all three drums. I thought I had looked them over
thoroghly after the staining, but once I started varnishing some of these
little tiny flaws came up. The worst one is a small area that I seemed to
have completely missed with stain, smaller than a dime, and unfortunately
will not be covered up by any hardware... but it will be right between a lug
and a floor tom leg mount which are very close together so I don't think
it's a big deal. Most of the other flaws seem to be around the edges, where
the head will cover them up.

MY next question, which is totally subjective: What should I use for bass
drum inlays? I have a ton of silver sparkle from the bass drum's original
wrap, some 60's WMP inlays I pulled off some 22" hoops a couple years ago,
and I might bid on some (Actual metal) Chrome inlays on eBay. I'm just
trying to think which one would look best. I know the WMP isn't the
traditional way to go on a wood kit but I don't think it would look bad... I
HATE cutting inlays so I don't know about the silver sparkle... heck my
other option would be to order some from Precision, pre cut, in glass
glitter.

--

--
Anthony Giampa; Imperiai2@cox.net
"Pity makes me strong." -- Conan O'Brien


"Pete Pemberton" <bfpemberton@fuse.net> wrote in message
news:3f547e5b$0$13080$a04e5680@nnrp.fuse.net...
> Are you sanding between coats? Do you have to do that with 'gel' varnish?
>
> Hand rub the last coat maybe?
>
> How did the staining go?
>
> PP
> "Anthony Giampa" <Imperiai2@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:qZV4b.38563$nf3.34207@fed1read07...
> > Is there anything I have to do after varnishing? I've put on 3 coats, I
> > think I'll just keep going until I finish off the last of my 1/2 pint
can.
> > Looks like 2 maybe 3 more coats per drum. Should I or can I, do anythign
> > else after that to further protect the finish?
> >
> > --
> >
> > --
> > Anthony Giampa; Imperiai2@cox.net
> > "Pity makes me strong." -- Conan O'Brien
> >
> >
> >
>
>

[Howard Hess]

On Tue, 2 Sep 2003 13:30:57 -0700, "Anthony Giampa"
<Imperiai2@cox.net> wrote:

>MY next question, which is totally subjective: What should I use for bass
>drum inlays? I have a ton of silver sparkle from the bass drum's original
>wrap, some 60's WMP inlays I pulled off some 22" hoops a couple years ago,
>and I might bid on some (Actual metal) Chrome inlays on eBay. I'm just
>trying to think which one would look best. I know the WMP isn't the
>traditional way to go on a wood kit but I don't think it would look bad... I
>HATE cutting inlays so I don't know about the silver sparkle... heck my
>other option would be to order some from Precision, pre cut, in glass
>glitter.
>
>--

Anthony,

Are you going with gloss black bass hoops? If so, I'm picturing a
walnut shell, silver hoop from the head, and the black wood hoop ...
so silver sparkle might be a safe bet.

Had you thought of getting a couple of new hoops, no inlay, and
staining them walnut/wrapping the outside with the walnut veneer?

[Anthony Giampa]

The hoops I have for it now are flat-black painted kellers, but I have
orderwed some inlayable hoops from Andy Foote. I want to go witht he inlay
route because it looks the most traditional...

--

--
Anthony Giampa; Imperiai2@cox.net
"Pity makes me strong." -- Conan O'Brien


"Howard Hess" <hmhess1@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:n85alvs7ca1fa230fkcj2q199f32929blo@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 2 Sep 2003 13:30:57 -0700, "Anthony Giampa"
> <Imperiai2@cox.net> wrote:
>
> >MY next question, which is totally subjective: What should I use for bass
> >drum inlays? I have a ton of silver sparkle from the bass drum's original
> >wrap, some 60's WMP inlays I pulled off some 22" hoops a couple years
ago,
> >and I might bid on some (Actual metal) Chrome inlays on eBay. I'm just
> >trying to think which one would look best. I know the WMP isn't the
> >traditional way to go on a wood kit but I don't think it would look
bad... I
> >HATE cutting inlays so I don't know about the silver sparkle... heck my
> >other option would be to order some from Precision, pre cut, in glass
> >glitter.
> >
> >--
>
> Anthony,
>
> Are you going with gloss black bass hoops? If so, I'm picturing a
> walnut shell, silver hoop from the head, and the black wood hoop ...
> so silver sparkle might be a safe bet.
>
> Had you thought of getting a couple of new hoops, no inlay, and
> staining them walnut/wrapping the outside with the walnut veneer?

[bjacoby@users.iwaynet.net]

Anthony Giampa <Imperiai2@cox.net> wrote:
> There is no mention of sanding between coats, so I haven't done any... What
> I am doing now is just ragging the stuff on-- isn't that 'hand rubbing'?

Ant,
Unless you are in a TOTALLY dust-free environment, you usually
have to sand with very fine paper or rub down with very fine
steel wool between coats. The idea is to rub down the dust
and bugs or whatever got stuck to the varnish in the last
coat when it dried. But yes, after that you just hand-rag
another coat on as smoothly and evenly as you can. After
some number coats you'll give it a peer and say,
"yep! that's it!".

But I think "hand rubbing" usually refers to the polishing
done to lacquer finishes to give that super-deep ultra
gloss look. (Also sands the dust and bugs out as per above
as well)

Benj

--
SPAM-Guard! Remove .users (if present) to email me!

[Pete Pemberton]

Usually with 400 or 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

PP
<bjacoby@users.iwaynet.net> wrote in message
news:bj3n9e$pm0$1@tribune.oar.net...
> Anthony Giampa <Imperiai2@cox.net> wrote:
> > There is no mention of sanding between coats, so I haven't done any...
What
> > I am doing now is just ragging the stuff on-- isn't that 'hand rubbing'?
>
> Ant,
> Unless you are in a TOTALLY dust-free environment, you usually
> have to sand with very fine paper or rub down with very fine
> steel wool between coats. The idea is to rub down the dust
> and bugs or whatever got stuck to the varnish in the last
> coat when it dried. But yes, after that you just hand-rag
> another coat on as smoothly and evenly as you can. After
> some number coats you'll give it a peer and say,
> "yep! that's it!".
>
> But I think "hand rubbing" usually refers to the polishing
> done to lacquer finishes to give that super-deep ultra
> gloss look. (Also sands the dust and bugs out as per above
> as well)
>
> Benj
>
> --
> SPAM-Guard! Remove .users (if present) to email me!